Each year, Holly Hughes compiles the best writing about food, producing a veritable feast for the senses but also an anthology filled with humour, politics and outrageous trendspotting.
I certainly found some of the essays skimmable; topics like tweeting about food and banning shark fin soup hold little interest for me. But many pieces grabbed both my attention and my heartstrings: the story of a small dairy trying to compete with another that mistreats thousands of cows, the memoir of a woman who only eats fried foods and the sad tale of a low income family who can barely make it to the closest supermarket miles away.
The book also contains some of the biggest names in food writing, who always entertain regardless of their subject. Deborah Maddison writes about the nostalgia of recipe cards and Gabrielle Hamilton appears with an excerpt from her fabulous "Blood, Bones and Butter."
"The Best Food Writing" is one to savour, to explore haphazardly and to look forward to every year.
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